My horns (with AER BD1) are working OK if I connect direct CD player --> preamp -->300B monoblocks -->horns. Whenever I set up CD Player -->preamp -->active crossover (Pioneer D23) -->300b monoblocks --> horns, there is a problem on one side of horn after 1/2 hour listening OK (the horn was silent after working awhile) . Do you think the crossover have a problem? wrong setup? or non match components?

Best way to find out is to isolate the problem first. First step could be to switch the channels one by one until the problem moves to the other side. This should tell you which part is causing the problem...

I would love to help but at this moment I am in the dark because it could be anything...

If things works OK for half an hour and then something stops working then something is overheated or getting warm making a bad contact act broken?

Do you have any article How can I set up the passive crossover? I have a pair of filter from BD, too. Thank you so much for your help.

What filter do you have from BD. Do you have a picture?

Bert

My horns (with AER BD1) are working OK if I connect direct CD player --> preamp -->300B monoblocks -->horns. Whenever I set up CD Player -->preamp -->active crossover (Pioneer D23) -->300b monoblocks --> horns, there is a problem on one side of horn after 1/2 hour listening OK (the horn was silent after working awhile) . Do you think the crossover have a problem? wrong setup? or non match components?

Do you have any article How can I set up the passive crossover? I have a pair of filter from BD, too. Thank you so much for your help. Henry

Make me an offer!

EUR 1050

I will try some small screws. By the way, how much do new mounting rings cost?

Better use headless nails (pre drilled) as you can make those dissapear within the paint...screws will never look real nice in case you want to finish them some day.

A set of new rings will cost 35 Euro plus shipping.

Cheers,

Bert

You can fix your present rings by nails or screws all through the horn wall into the rings or you can order new rings with glue.

Best Regards,

Bert

Thanks Bert; I will try some small screws. By the way, how much do new mounting rings cost?

I have very early Oris 150 horns I purchased from someone in Chicago who was acting as some sort of U.S. distributor before Welborne Labs. The mounting rings attach to the horns via small brass studs that line up with shallow holes drilled in a matching pattern in outside surface horns for a precarious press fit. Well, my horns no longer want to stay attached to mounting rings and come crashing down, causing all sorts of problems and damage. Is there some sort of adhesive I could use to more permanently attach the mounting rings to the horn?

Okay, indeed this was a long time ago. Problem is the used material for the rings (Nylon) which can't be glued. Ones clicked and not too much weight applied to the combination worked well but once it becomes loose it does not "click" and hold anymore.

How are newer versions of the Oris horns attached to the mounting rings?

These days the rings are glued to the horns but using different materials for the rings too. Still this is not a super strong bonding but when used under normal conditiond these will hold pretty well.

Never use an unsupported Lowther PM4A because eventually this will torn things apart...

You can fix your present rings by nails or screws all through the horn wall into the rings or you can order new rings with glue.

Best Regards,

Bert

Regards,

Gasper.

The situation is like that I am selling Oris 150 horn with Lowther DX3 drivers, bass is REF2010 with BD15 drivers, BD30 bass amps and Reckhorn S1 active crossover. The horn is not painted, the bass enclosure is painted in white. It was DIY kit with profesionall finishing. The response is flat from 23Hz up (to cca 14kHz). They are in mint condition!

For all detail please e-mail me.

Here is picture:

Best Regards,

Gasper.

Did you try to exchange one BD horn? Did the problem go to the other channel?

Bert

Pity... I am just curious what is the curve from 150Hz to bottom end...

From memory this should be flat between 23Hz (-3dB) and 150Hz (depending on the S-1 settings of course and room modes not included).

Bert

Regards,

G.

Do you have any measurements for REF2010/S1/DB30/BD15 (plot/diagram)?

Sorry but no I don't. I never save any measurements...

Bert

G.

I found out something weird while testing another amplifier and the expected EQ did not work as it did on my own amplifiers. It appears that the output impedance of these Reckhorn devices are relative high which gives a problem when the input impedance of the connected amplifier is relatively low.

As long as the input impedance of the connected amplifier is higher than 47k and the interconnects are not too long then all is well but amplifiers with lower input impedances should not be used.

I measured 1k output impedance for the B-2 and 500 ohms for the S-1.

Just so that you know... (for people using these Reckhorns on behalf my given advise).

See more related info here:

http://forum.bd-design.nl/index.php?id=16572

Cheers,

Bert

Good to read that you are getting closer to your optimum...

...and that you finally listen to a complete sound with serious bass!
There's no way back now...

Bert

Although I haven't tried it multipe times, separating the bass amplifier from the CrazyA on the mains (separate groups) seems to do the trick; no hard ticks!

I also changed some parameters on the Behringer; I lowered the high cut off frequency and chosen a shallower slope. It seems much better in balance now. The punch is not completely there yet, but it's more than OK

Quite confronting to listen to a Toto album (Tambu) tonight, that I had taken with me in 2000 to you for listening to the Oris for the 1st time. Now, after more than 10 years I have succeeded to listen build my own setup with bass and listen to the same album.

Listening to my setup, makes me smile and have respect for the cleanliness and the immense headroom of fronthorns

Cheers,
Rudolf