Tom

tomjoy@flash.net

I am using a Bel Canto ICE amp so there is no problem with power or damping factor.

As promised some feedback about the experiments I did with the Reckhorn S-1, B-2 and A-403...

To be honest... all EQ functions are useless for the average user as its functionality does not act (not even close!) to what the manual is trying to believe you. You will need measuring equipment and knowledge to see what you are doing because the knob settings indication values are not correct...

On top of that is that the implemented functions are influencing each other making it nearly impossible to set it correctly by hand. Furthermore the EQ (room mode correction) does not work as it should (okay, it is doing something but with the effective Q being less than 0.5 makes it useless).

However, I did managed to adjust a pair of S-1's in a way that it does work very well with my Orphean MkII Ultra (REF2010) and I have to say I like it a lot! The sound from the S-1 is very good but that is all the good news...the S-1 is basically the only device that turned out to be useable (not the EQ...).

It could work too with other Oris systems but I do not feel confident that customers can tune this themselves without any help of useable measuring tools towards their satisfaction...

The B-2 (stereo!) could be used too but having the same limitations and awkward behavior as the S-1's and without the 24dB crossover on board...

Finally the A-403. Same story as above being basically useless in the EQ settings but the 24dB crossover seems to work well enough making it useable as amplifier with crossover in one external housing.

I have tested the internal A-403 amp without EQ itself (compared it to the BD30) and it does not impress me much. If you like a full bodied bass with enough output power then this is the amplifier for you but if you like clean, articulated and tight dynamic bass then its not for you.

The amp makes the BD15's sound like they are having more heavy diaphragms as common 15" woofers have and makes them tend to sound alike.

Still, for the money involved and if you know what you are doing and if you can measure to check things then it might be very useful for you in the end.

The S-1's will stay in my system until I have a more dedicated and for_all_to use solution and the A-403 is now used to drive my BIG subwoofer (home theatre only) where it seems very usable (used in combination with my Behringer Ultracurve 2496) for all frequencies below 23Hz...

Bert

• Turntable: Diecast non-magnetic aluminum dynamically balanced
• Platten Diameter: 12.25”
• Platten Weight: 8.8 Lbs.
• Speeds: 78, 45, 33, 16 with click stops on the control
• Wow & Flutter: 0.06% (DIN Specification)
• Rumble: - 60dB
• Speed Stability: Within 0 - 2% with a 10% change in AC power stability
• Lowering Device: Hydraulic
• Pickup Arm: Lightweight Type with decoupling counterweight and separate playing weight counterbalance
• Stylus Pressure: Infinitely Variable 0 - 5 Grams calibrated at 0.5 Gram Increments
• Total Tonearm Length: 12.4”
• Effective Tonearm Length: 8.3”
• Overhang: 0.675” adjustable up to .33” at the headshell
• Offset Angle 23 degrees 12
• Tracking Error: +/- 0.8 degrees
• Height: Adjustible
• Dimensions: 15” x 13” x 2.25” above baseplate (3” below baseplate)
• Weight 18.7 pounds

Are gainclones good? IIRC the impedance of the driver is 13-16 ohms and gainclones do not really like high impedances.

Already from the start the sound is very good. All what is spoken about BD15 is truth. Also there is much better sound from the Oris 150 too - transparent, details, dynamis,... I wonder why...

Next project? BD30, of course... I wonder what it will do?

Ragards,

Gasper

I will be building the ATS corner horn bass speaker cabinets Can anyone advice me on how much damping is required in the cabinet. And were it should be placed?

Also I plan to use plate amps to drive the bass drivers1 per side. Can any one suggest the best type/ make for this purpose?

Thanks hifido

Does anyone have experience of this type of set up?

Can anyone help with a suitable design/ drawing for a single bass cabinet?

I was thinking maybe a single horn bass cabinet. I am a fine furniture maker so would look forward to the challenge of building this type of cabinet.

I look forward to your replies. And any help you can give.

Hifido.

http://www.twindac.com/TwinDACSpec.htm

Very rare and very good. The best USB DAC till date?

Made by Mirko Wetzig in Japan, sold by Bert.

Done in 1 box including the batteries.
Excellent condition.

European voltage.

USD 2000 or it's Euro equivalent.

My system is in the Bert's showroom. It will be a safe purchase.

In case you were planning to get yourself some then order them before the end of this month.

Just so that you are informed.

Bert

I like the new looks on your website, but what happened to the pictures of the Swings? Or are your handprints the first step to the Walk of Fame?

Grtz, Frank

Bert
Do you think that the REF2010 can be used extended to 800-900hz crossover range?
I'm playing with a relatively affordable summer project of a 2-way box for small rooms. In a few words, it's a 15" conical horn with a 15" driver, same directivity around crossing frequency which should be tuned around 800-900hz as it's a limit from the horn of that size. BD15 is probably the most linear bass driver I know when it comes to higher frequencies and looks like a perfect solution.
So the question is: how high can BD15 play in the REF2010 and still being linear?
Thanks!

A friend of mine bought the Oris 200 a few years back, and never got around to using them.

I was wondering if, to get the project going, the PM6C drivers would be a good match with the 200?

Anyone tried them together?

I am in the process of building a super budget Oris horn system. I have two quick questions:

1) Is there a general consensus on what is the best-value budget driver for the Oris 150 horn (by budget, I mean no more than $500/pair max). If so, please indicate which driver.

2) Has anyone every tried the JBL 2245 driver for bass duty? The driver is very well respected at the Lansing Heritage forums and was used in the much respected JBL 4345 studio monitors (a favorite amount the collectors). In the JBL 4345 system, the 2245H driver was crossed at about 290hz. Many felt that 290hz was too high of a frequency to cross the 18" driver while others felt it transitioned seamlessly to the 10" JBL 2122H. If used with the Oris 150 set-up, I will obviously be crossing it around 150hz. The JBL 2245H is rated at 95db efficiency and more specs can be found here.

The reason why I am inquiring about the JBL 2245H is because I had the opportunity to listen to the Bass Reference cabinet and was not very happy with it's performance (-I hope I am not offending anyone by saying that - it is just a matter or personal taste).

Please share your thoughts.

Thanks,
D